After a day of exploring Split’s amazing historical center, head towards the harbour, walk towards your right and climb the steps to Marjan Hill for a delicious afternoon coffee break and absolutely spectacular views of Split.
I was told the walk up the hill should take about 15-20 minutes. I should have known! The path to the stairs was not very clear and I missed it completely. But, it ended up being a blessing in disguise because my detour took me on a tour of the ancient Veli Varoš quarter. The neighbourhood is said to be one of the oldest suburbs of Split and is a labyrinth of old stone houses, narrow, winding alleyways and small scattered churches. Don’t be afraid to get lost and explore a little because there are delightful surprises to be found around every turn – and the residents are friendly and will give you directions! As I stopped several times to admire an old door, take a photo of someone’s laundry hanging from the window or play with the friendly cats that wandered the streets, it took me closer to 45 minutes to get to the top of the hill.
But when I did I was surprised to find a lovely little cafè bar called Teraca Vidilica. Located at Nazorov Prilaz 1, Split 21000, Croatia, this relaxing bar offers breathtaking panoramic views of Split’s city, mountains and harbour. My recommendation: Snag one of the chairs on the patio and park yourself there shortly before sunset. Order your coffee of choice (the iced coffee is delicious and very refreshing on a hot day after the hike up the hill) and watch as Split’s red rooftops and sky magically change colours in the late afternoon sun. After the sun goes down, order up a cocktail and enjoy the same scene transformed by the sparkling lights of the city below – or stay for dinner. Vidilica becomes a full service restaurant offering Dalmatian cuisine.
Did you know? Marjan Hill is covered in a dense Mediterranean pine forest and completely surrounded by the city and the sea. In ancient times the Emperor Diocletian built his palace nearby and the park was used for recreation. Today, it is a favorite weekend destination offering several walking, jogging and biking trails.
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